Mèn mén – from a humble dish to a speciality of the Highlands

Mèn mén, originally a simple dish of the mountain peoples, mainly the H’Mông, has now become a popular speciality.

To prepare a delicious mèn mén, the H’Mông have to follow an elaborate recipe. Mrs Giàng Thị Só, from Nậm Ngám A village, Pú Nhi commune, Điện Biên Đông district, Điện Biên province, explains that choosing the ingredients is the first and most important step. “The maize used for mèn mén is usually white or yellow maize, grown locally. It is the large, plump, shiny kernels that make the best-quality mèn mén,” says Mrs Só.

Large, plump maize kernels are selected to make a delicious mèn mén.

After the harvest, the maize is ground using traditional stone mills. This rather laborious process gives men men its typical highland flavour. After grinding, the maize flour is carefully sifted two or three times to remove impurities, then mixed with just the right amount of water and steamed.

Traditional stone mills are used to grind the maize.

The steaming is usually done in two stages to ensure even cooking and the ideal consistency. The cooking time depends on the variety of maize. Young maize cooks more quickly, as the steam is enough to make it rise. Older maize needs longer cooking. The second steaming lasts around 30 to 40 minutes and gives the men men an even cook and a beautiful golden colour.

The maize flour is sifted two or three times to obtain a fine flour that feels cool to the touch.

The maize flour is sifted 2 to 3 times to obtain a fine flour that feels cool to the touch. According to Mrs Giang Thi So, when life was hard, men men was the staple food of the H’Mong people. The maize flour is finely ground and steamed, producing a fragrant, soft dough. However, with a more modern way of life, maize flour is often mixed with glutinous rice to enhance the flavour and texture of the dish.

Maize flour mixed with glutinous rice to enhance the flavour and texture.

“Men men is usually eaten with various soups such as cabbage soup, pumpkin soup, broth… However, chicken soup remains the most popular. The harmonious combination of the nutty flavour of men men and the sweetness of the chicken makes an incredibly tasty dish,” said Mrs So.

Preparing a delicious men men takes time and many steps.

In the past, the Hmong ate men men (maize porridge) every day. Today, at highland markets, men men is regarded as a speciality and a must-have souvenir for many tourists. It is often eaten with bean sprout soup and thang co (a traditional stew), making a tasty meal.

At the markets, men men is often served as an accompaniment to Thang Co.

Men men is not just a simple food that has fed generations of highlanders; it also reflects the culinary culture and customs of the Hmong, who grow mainly maize on the high rocky mountains, as these areas are very difficult for rice farming.

Source: Quang Đạt